Asus strix scar 2, load in the truck?

I'm currently looking for the best solution to load my laptop in an Actros.

My plan was only to increase with ner thick power bank for quite small battery of the laptop.

But now I've found the first problem, no power bank would load this laptop, since it requires a power of 230 watts. See image

And the 12 volt connection only brings Max 150 watts, probably. Is it about 24 volts? Or nen converter over 12/24 volts I have no idea. Help please

So now to you, do you have an idea can you help me? I have no idea about electricity, just want to play a bit in the evening. Battery should last up to two hours I can watch series and surf, just play.

Your truck or your company?
If your then build yourself a voltage transformer.
To do this, insert new cables from the battery into the interior => secure the positive pole close to the battery => install switch to disconnect from the vehicle electrical system otherwise it may be that there's no juice in the early = = install voltage converter / inverter for 24V to 230V

Basically, there should be something of Mercedes as a kit

Is the truck of my company, the workshop but also builds every converter where we submit to you.

Such jobs are made by a car electrician, these can still be found occasionally in BOSCH workshops or in commercial vehicle workshops

24> 20 Volt DCDC Buckdown Converter There are "selections" eg Lind, Phoenix / Quint, Powerstream, Mouser or Mastervolt

https://gross24.de/mobilepower/lind/content/lindelectronicsadapters28v.htm

https://www.mastervolt.de/produkte/dc-dc-wandler-mac-magic/dc-dc-wandler-magic-24-24-20/

You can also build a rectifier (let) or research the notebook manufacturer for a 24 volt power supply. For most notebooks in the military sector, there are 24 volt power supplies

And that notebook "does not need" 230 watts that is the maximum power consumption. Just measure it

Okay so the 230 watts where is there are Max performance. But the rest is really wow, is not there an easy way? Like a converter to 12/24 volt output. It's not my truck, some have such big transducers in it that makes our workshop. But you do not want to do that with my truck, because I'll get a new one in 5 months.

The simple way is you go to a "real" electrician so no mechatronics or other part exchangers otherwise there are the components in / in bosoms, in WOMO / caravans, in motorboats yes even in trucks. Whoever Actros is waiting for is either a "rivet" that knows nothing and less can (mechatronics), a talker or it is company policy.

Installing such a part is risky, so if the truck burns off the liability question is quite simple who is installing "is it" or who gives the attachment to it.

A stable DC-DC converter for 230 watts of constant current power is big, heavy, expensive, you can build a simple buck down as a craft solutions because you end up with 100 euro material for converter plus aluminum cooling housing, blowers and small parts.

https://www.amazon.de/...07GXQ8MNG/

https://www.amazon.com/...B071LGTTRN

https://www.amazon.de/...B00HV4EPG8

https://www.heise.de/...44557.html

But DC-DC power supplies in the ampere range are only allowed to build / certify electrons / electrical champions upwards / certify as a single piece / prototype that then tends towards 500 euro because 1 test pattern may be destroyed.

Contacts first ASUS because of a 24Volt "power supply" then the company Lind in Filderstadt because of a ready-made power supply for your laptop.

The Mastervolt solution is MASSIVE and is used eg for onboard PC systems and can digest up to 1kW at short notice. Mastervolt can be found in 100s camper vans, bosoms, boats, government vehicles and also in trucks. But the Mastervolt can be too much. There are, for example, ready-to-install control cabinet solutions from Murr Elektric for 20Volt solar systems because it simply clamped 20Volt to 24V or reversed down to 20Volt. Cheap things are not synonymous but that is just the "Swabian class" for mechanical engineering

The point is you can with little effort 24Volt down to 19 volts to take a "suitable" resistance but at 11 amps continuous load rating is probably Faustgross and has a cooling area in the square meter area because you would have to install in the cooling circuit and consider as engine pre-heating. A rectifier with Schotky diode would be similar in size but less hot or more effective. That's why you take the switching power supplies best with Galvanischer separation and ripple suppression if the laptop does not do it yourself but that is due to space always in the power supply.

But switch mode power supplies have up to 99% efficiency, ie 1-5% waste heat.

But as I said that is 0815 for a car electrician there are tens of ways to the goal.

The first point is why you want to / have to have a high power GAMER laptop in a truck because most of the time you do not have to survive the constant microvibrations of a diesel engine?

For example, a Toughbook by Panasonic is more suitable and there are 24Volt power supplies directly from the manufacturer also come to Toughbook 54 with 60 watts of power at full load so so to 16V x 4 amps that goes even with a single 5 AMP DC-DC Buck flying out of On-board socket and fits, for example, loosely in a Schokola can with the side then because of the heat still because coffee can keep warm.

30-60 watts are enough for internet, video and surfing, even DV editing in SD / HD or MP3 ripping is possible. And a Tougbook 54 lasts 10-12 hours of surfing on a single charge or 6 hours of video editing under load

Why should the laptop take harm? Because it vibrates, no, certainly not, a stand housing also has vibrations. He lies on the bed and he is in good hands. Why I want to have such a laptop with me, because I would like to gamble again in the evening, because I'm only two nights at home, so I have to make myself comfortable. Aso the TV is not broken by the vibrations. But first of all thanks for the help, I'll take a closer look at everything.